Sunday, 15 February 2015
Carnival - The Feast of the Maries
This celebration was born long before the beginning of the celebrations of the Carnevale and it is the oldest celebration in Venice. It is connected with an episode happened on the day of the Feast of the Purification of Mary. On that day, in the Church of San Pietro di Castello, the bishop would bless marriages and in particular those of the twelve brides chosen amongst the poorer families of Venice. During the ceremony the wealthy patricians of Venice gifted the twelve poor maidens with donations. The brides, in white dresses, wore jewels and gold lent them by the State. After the blessing and the lavish wedding, the brides received the homage of the Doge at the Doge Palace and attended the banquet. Later, on the Bucintoro they followed the Canal Grande to the Church of Santa Maria Formosa fore more celebrations. In 934 on this occasion the Venetians brides were kidnapped by Narentine pirates along with their dowries and jewels. The outraged Venetians chased the pirates and nearby the port of Caorle they slaughtered the lot and saved the brides. In honour of the brides the port where they were saved is still called the 'Port of the Maidens'. La Festa delle Marie (the Feast of the Maries) commemorates the victory which was attributed to the intercession of Mary. Originally, the feast consisted of a boat parade taking the twelve most beautiful girls in Venice sumptuously dressed along the Canals. They would take part in religious functions, dances, music and refreshments. The city admired their beauty and considered being near them to bring good luck. Eventually, over the centuries, the spirit of the feast was undermined, the ceremony lost its original religious importance and turn into a mere opportunity to admire the beautiful girls. In 1349 the girls were therefore replaced by twelve wooden figures which became targets for the unhappy citizens to throw vegetables. The celebration was then suppressed in 1793. The ancient festival was reintroduced in recent times and it is celebrated during the Carnevale, with the election, on the last day, of the Maria of the Year.
Friday, 23 January 2015
Burano's legends...
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Molto interessanti sono alcune leggende che riguardano l'isola tra cui quella sull'origine dei colori vivaci delle case. Si dice che i colori così diversi servissero ai pescatori di ritorno a casa per riconoscere immediatamente da lontano la propria dimora. Secondo altri, invece, avrebbero significato che le case non erano state colpite dalla peste o dal colera, infatti in quei casi venivano disinfetttate dalle pestilenze con la calce che le rendeva bianchissime.
Un'altra leggenda affascinante è quella sull'origine del merletto. Si racconta che un pescatore promesso sposo fosse riuscito a resistere al richiamo delle sirene e avesse ricevuto in dono dalla loro regina per la sua straordinaria fedeltà un velo nuziale creato dalla schiuma del mare. Tale velo indossato dalla sua sposa venne talmente ammirato dalle giovani dell'isola che queste incominciarono a tentare di imitarlo tramite il ricamo creando dei bellissimi merletti.
Altre leggende riguardano i santi protettori. Una di queste racconta che intorno alll'anno Mille fu ritrovata una grossa cassa di pietra galleggiante che quattro fanciulli riuscirono a portare a riva. Dentro si trovarono i corpi di Sant'Albano, di San Domenico e San Orso e un barilotto di vino, il "bottazzo di Sant'Albano". Quest'ultimo fu ritenuto miracoloso e fu rubato dai Muranesi invidiosi ma purtroppo nessun miracolo avvenne e il bottazzo si trova ancor'oggi nella chiesa di San Donato di Murano nella speranza che avvenga il miracolo...
Infine, un'altra legenda che riguarda sempre Sant'Albano, uno dei santi protettori di Burano, racconta che i Buranelli fossero stati beffati da un gioielliere il quale aveva chiesto loro tutti gli ori che possedevano per fonderli e creare un braccio d'oro come reliquiario per i resti di Sant'Albano. Il braccio che consegnò, creduto d'oro massiccio, avrebbe però poi col caldo fatto fuoriuscire una sostanza nera, probabilmente pece, rivelando così l'inganno!
Saturday, 17 January 2015
My articles on Italia! Magazine
Articles
8 - 48 hours in Vicenza
7- Sicily September issue 130 http://www.italytravelandlife.com/2015/08/italia-september-issue-on-sale-now/
6- July issue 128 - 48 hours in Treviso
4 & 5 -June issue 127 - On the footsteps of Casanova and 48 hours in Padova http://www.italytravelandlife.com/2015/05/italia-june-issue-on-sale-now/
- Italia! Guide. Venice - Veneto & Beyond (3 articles - 114, 118, 123). www.italytravelandlife.com/2015/04/italia-venice-guide-is-on-sale-now/3- issue 123 HIDDEN VENICE
2- issue 118 Venice Eat Like a Local
1- issue 114 Venice Carnival 2014 http://www.italytravelandlife.com/2014/04/venice-carnivale/ and
Monday, 8 December 2014
'El Paron de Casa' or 'The Master of the House'
The highest bell tower in Venice, St. Mark's Campanile, is one of Venice's most recognisable landmarks and it is so important and so loved by Venetians that they call it 'el paron de casa' (the master of the house). For Venetians the Campanile is a friend and a symbol. In 1902 when it collapsed it was necessary to rebuild it 'com'era e dov'era' (how it was and where it was). The Campanile is almost 100 metres high and according to a legend Venetians have never allowed - not in Venice nor in the nearby villages - the constrution of a higher tower. On top of the Campanile is a golden statue of the Archangel Gabriel which rotates with the wind. When the angel faces the Basilica for the Venetians is the sign that there will be 'acqua alta' (high water).
The initial IX century construction built in this site was possibly a lighthouse later replaced by a clock tower. Throughout the centuries it was renovated and rebuilt numerous times and it assumed its present apparence at the beginning of the XVI century with the addition of the upper structure - the belfry, the attic and the turntable with the golden statue of Garbriel (Bartolomeo Bon the Younger is responsible for these additions). The Loggetta del Sansovino, the highly decorated podium at the entrance at the entrance of the Campanile, was completed in 1549. Born as the meeting place for Venice nobility it was soon turn into a guardhouse for the Arsenale workmen who protected the area while the Maggior Consiglio was sitting. It later served more humble functions and at the end of XVIII it even served as the room in which the state lottery was drawn!
Almost as famous as the Campanile are its five bells. Each had a distinctive function. The 'Marangona', the largest, tolled the beginning and the end of the working day for the Arsenalotti, the 'Trottiera' called the members of the Maggior Consiglio to the council chamber, the 'Nona' rang midday, the 'Mezza Terza' proclaimed a session of the Senate and the smallest, called the 'Renghiera' or the 'Maleficio', announced the executions.
Amongst the famous personalities who have been up the Campanile, they say that in 1452 the Austrian emperor Frederick III climbed up the stairs of the Campanile on his horse and in 1609 Galileo demonstrated his telescope to the Doge Antonio Priuli.
Friday, 31 October 2014
Into the world of Venetian elegance and luxury...
If you want to understand the world of elegance and luxury in which Venetian patricians lived in the XVIII century you will definitely need to visit Palazzo Mocenigo at San Stae. It is a very pleasant and relaxing experience. You will be standing under great ceiling frescos, admiring a fine selection of costumes and accessories but also furniture and valuable artworks. Mannequins dressed in XVIII century clothing recreate the period atmosphere and seem to take life in this environment surrounded by precious furnishings and paintings, lace and embroidery. You can observe the evolution of fashion and the analogies with the changes in the furniture, you can smell samples of perfumes bases and touch the raw materials. All senses will be involved and you will be transported back to the XVIII century. On the first floor, there are some very intersting rooms - a small room containing 56 waistcoats, a reconstruction of a laboratory of the perfume maker, a library with old books on fashion and beauty and a room where you can sit down and watch a very entertaining short film about the history of perfume (which is shown in different languages).
The Palazzo Mocenigo is a building of Gothic origin rebuilt at the beginning of the XVII century. It was one of the residences of one of the most prestigious families of the Venetian Patriciate that originated 7 Dogi between 1414 and 1778. The palace is the seat of the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes and it contains a library specialising in history of fabrics, costumes and fashion.
Sunday, 13 April 2014
Burano, the painters' island
Burano is one of the main islands in Venice. It is located on the North Lagoon and it is well known for its characteristic small coloured houses. Like most of the other islands of the lagoon, Burano was born as a result of the migration of the mainland populations, specifically from Altino, who sheltered here trying to escape from the barbaric invasions. Indeed, the name probably derives from the name of one of the old doors of the town of Altino. For centuries the island has been living thanks to fishing and the production of merletti (lace). Thanks to the lace production it was a rich town. The art of lace making became so popular that in the Seventeenth century there was a demand for it even outside Italy. Despite of the fact that today the island lives mainly thanks to tourism, it is still a quiet place with an intimate atmosphere. The main road, filled with lace and souvenirs shops and restaurants, takes its name from the famous local music writer Baldassarre Galuppi (1703-85). The Church of San Martino is worth a visit. Here you can admire the famous Crucifixion, an early work by Giambattista Tiepolo. If you like good food and you are looking for a welcoming and intimate environment you cannot miss lunch at
Gatto Nero. The restaurant has been managed by the same family for over half a century. Ruggero, his wife Lucia and their son Massimiliano welcome you with a smile and the same hospitality you would offer your guest in your own house. No need to panic if you don't speak Italian as Massimiliano speaks perfect English, even with a Scottish accent! Surrounded by walls covered by paintings by famous local artists, you will enjoy excellent fresh fish, risotto di gò, baccalà that tastes like cream, wine and homemade desserts... You will have to make a real effort to leave the table...
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