Where to eat and drink in Venice

AL MERCA'(Rialto)

This peculiar hole-in-the-wall osteria, near Rialto market is definitely a must go. I love the small panini and the buzz of the locals trying to grab a bite during their lunch or on their way back from the market.

If you are coming from San Marco/San Bortolomeo cross the bridge and walk on the right, pass San Giacometto church and square and then go towards the market. Just before the Rialto market on the wall on the left side not far from Il Muro bar. San Polo 213, Capo Cesare Battisti (between Rialto bridge and Rialto market)
+39 (0) 347 100 2583

BANCOGIRO (Rialto)

You must stop for a drink here. Make sure you sit outside on the terrace overlooking the Canal Grande. You will get a good view of some of the amazing palaces on the Canal Grande and a differerent view of the Rialto bridge. Order some wine and cheese and relax watching the gondole passing by...

If you are coming from San Marco/San Bortolomeo, cross the Rialto bridge and turn right. San Polo 130

OSTERIA AL DIAVOLO E ALL'ACQUA SANTA (Rialto, camminando in direzione San Polo)

This is a typical Venetian osteria, with traditional Venitian food that you now struggle to find anywhere else. It is not a fancy environment, but it is pleasant. You can stand and eat cicchetti or sit down. At the counter, there is a big pot with musetto, trippa e testina - I am not sure if I should explain what they are... Let's say not far away from a haggis!! You should try them as they are super tasty and the are proper original Venetian food.

Walk from Rialto in the direction of San Polo but stop much earlier, it is on a narrow calle on your left. Calle della Madonna 561 San Polo

ROSTICCERIA GISLON (Rialto)

You must stop here to try the mozzarella in carrozza (deep fried mozzarella and ham). It sounds horrible but it is the best thing ever, especially before a late lunch or dinner with a spritz....

Walk from S. Lio towards Rialto but stop before Rialto, exactly just few metres before campo San Bortolomeo (after you cross the bridge after San Lio is on your left). Calle de la Bissa 5424 | Campo San Bartolomeo, 30124 Venice, Italy (San Marco)

+39 0415 223569

CANTINA DO MORI  (near Rialto)

Eat cicchetti and drink wine in a lively atmosphere. This was one of my grandad's favourite places where to drink. Here, you are surrounded by Venetians standing, socialising in the thin strip of thoroughfare space the leads from one door to another one...hundreds of copper pots are hanging above your head...

If you are coming from San Marco/San Bortolomeo, cross the Rialto bridge and turn left in the direction of San Polo and you will find it just few meters after on your right handsite. 

DO SPADE (Near Rialto market)
Eat polpette di carne e di pesce, try chele di granchio. In a journey back in time to Casanova 's hunting ground...read the full story on the print on the wall (History of My Life, Casanova).

After the Rialto market, walk in the direction of San Giacomo, pass the camera shop and cross the little bridge and turn left immediately crossing the tiny bridge and walking under the arch. San Polo 860

ENOTECA BOLDRIN (near San Canzian)

Here you can eat amzing tramezzini or un primo and drink wine very quickly and unformally.

If you are coming from San Bortolomeo walk in the Coin direction (the big shop after the Poste ) and cross the Ponte dei giocattoli and turn right in the direction of San Giovanni e Paolo. It is only a minute away from when you cross the bridge on your left handside. San Canziano | Cannaregio 5550, Venezia, Italia

AL TIMON, Fondamenta degli Ormesini, Cannaregio

Seduti sulla Fondamenta, l'atmosfera e' fantastica. I Veneziani si trovano qui per un aperitivo e un buon  ed economico cicchetto o per una deliziosa cena a base di carne. La piccata e la fiorentina sono magnifiche!! 

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Venice and Bond...

Loving Skyfall, but I do miss the Venice scene from Casino Royale...

 http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwrel&v=5DyvHwBl9vI

LA FESTA DI SAN MARTINO

La festa di San Martino e' una delle feste veneziane piu' originali. L'undici novembre i bambini si armano di pentole e coperchi o mestoli e fanno chiasso, cantando una filastrocca in dialetto veneziano e chiedendo soldi a passanti e venditori. A volte, suonano i campanelli di abitazioni private in gruppi chiedendo spiccioli per comprare caramelle e dolci. Il dolce tipico, a forma di S. Martino a cavallo con spada e mantello, è fatto di pasta frolla. Puo' essere bianco (pastafrolla) o scuro (pastafrolla ricoperta di cioccolato) ricoperto di glassa di zucchero colorata, cioccolatini (di solito avvolti nelle loro carte colorate), perline di zucchero argentate e carmelle (smarties, confetti e gelatine).

La leggenda narra che l'undici novembre in un giorno freddo e piovoso, San Martino offri' parte del suo mantello ad un povero mendicante. Poco dopo, il sole apparve forse come ricompensa per la sua generosita' e carita'. Per questo, si parla ora di estate di San Martino riferendosi a quel periodo dell'anno in cui, dopo le prime gelate, il clima e' piu' mite e fa bel tempo.
Il culto di San Martino di Tours e' sempre stato molto sentito a Venezia grazie alla presenza della tibia del santo nella chiesa di San Martino.

La filastrocca in dialetto e' la seguente:

S.Martin xe 'ndà in sofita
a trovar ea nona Rita
nona Rita no ghe gera
S.Martin col cuo par tera
E col nostro sachetin
cari signoS.Martin

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Lido

Lido is an 11 km long sandbank...

MY VENICE

There are many beautiful cities and towns but Venice is not only beautiful, it is unique at the same time. No cars, not even one.
When I speak about it to my friends' younger children they are always amazed. They love the fact that it is so unusual, there are no cars, it is surrounded by water and you need to get a boat to get to school. I can read the bewilderment in their faces. They always ask me: did you have to get a boat every morning? I often reply: Yes, I had to unless I wanted to follow Lord Byron's example... They do not usually get the sarcastic comment...


I believe that Venice is very challenging to get to know or, let me put it another way, it is like a stranger and it takes a long time to get to know her properly. Like other cities you need to stay there for a while and come back to it many times in order to get to know the locals, their habits and their ways.

I think that the best way for a tourist to get to know Venice is not to follow the classic itinerary.
If It is your first visit in Venice, start with the real Venetian life rather than queing to get into a museum. If I go with a friend who has never been, I would probably start from Giardini, walking through Via Garibaldi to the church of San Pietro. I love the scenes of authentic Venetian life that you see in Via Garibaldi. People are chatting, shouting from a window to a friend, sharing a glass of wine at a very early time in the morning as a sort of unconventional breakfast, buying fruit and vegetables from the boat seller (my mum's cousin!), kids are running and playing, the laundry is drying hanging outside, it looks colourful, it smells nice and I have always found fascinating the fact that you can look up and try to guess who lives there...

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LA FESTA DI SAN MARTINO

La festa di San Martino e' una delle feste veneziane piu' originali. L'undici novembre i bambini si armano di pentole e coperchi o mestoli e fanno chiasso, cantando una filastrocca in dialetto veneziano e chiedendo soldi a passanti e venditori. A volte, suonano i campanelli di abitazioni private in gruppi chiedendo spiccioli per comprare caramelle e dolci. Il dolce tipico, a forma di S. Martino a cavallo con spada e mantello, è fatto di pasta frolla. Puo' essere bianco (pastafrolla) o scuro (pastafrolla ricoperta di cioccolato) ricoperto di glassa di zucchero colorata, cioccolatini (di solito avvolti nelle loro carte colorate), perline di zucchero argentate e carmelle (smarties, confetti e gelatine).

La leggenda narra che l'undici novembre in un giorno freddo e piovoso, San Martino offri' parte del suo mantello ad un povero mendicante. Poco dopo, il sole apparve forse come ricompensa per la sua generosita' e carita'. Per questo, si parla ora di estate di San Martino riferendosi a quel periodo dell'anno in cui, dopo le prime gelate, il clima e' piu' mite e fa bel tempo.
Il culto di San Martino di Tours e' sempre stato molto sentito a Venezia grazie alla presenza della tibia del santo nella chiesa di San Martino.

La filastrocca in dialetto e' la seguente:

S.Martin xe 'ndà in sofita
a trovar ea nona Rita
nona Rita no ghe gera
S.Martin col cuo par tera
E col nostro sachetin
cari signoS.Martin

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A MUST READ

http://rialtofil.com/category/la-mia-citta/ http://www.veneziamuseo.it/ARSENAL/caxa_arsenal.htm http://www.veneziamuseo.it/ARSENAL/caxa_arsenal.hteziamuseo.it/ARSENAL/caxa_arsenal.htm

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Arsenale, Venice

Largest industrial complex in Europe
It might have existed as early as the VIII century, it definitely existed in the early XIII century
Present structure - 1104, during the reign of Ordelafo Faliero
Wood from Montello
Early XIII century 16,000 people able to produce nearly a ship each day
1320 creation of the Arsenale Nuovo


Main gate - Porta Magna built around 1460 (built perhaps by Antonio Gambello from a desing by Jacopo Bellini) - first Classic revival stucture built in Venice. The lions are from Greece (1687), see the runic inscriptions (XI century).

GALILEO GALILEI

1593 - external consultant to the Arsenal in matters of rowing, instruments and ballistics.

DANTE INFERNO CANTO XI


Così di ponte in ponte, altro parlando
che la mia comedìa cantar non cura,
venimmo; e tenavamo ’l colmo, quando
restammo per veder l’altra fessura
di Malebolge e li altri pianti vani;
e vidila mirabilmente oscura.

Quale ne l’arzanà de’ Viniziani
bolle l’inverno la tenace pece
a rimpalmare i legni lor non sani,

ché navicar non ponnoóin quella vece
chi fa suo legno novo e chi ristoppa
le coste a quel che più vïaggi fece;

chi ribatte da proda e chi da poppa;
altri fa remi e altri volge sarte;
chi terzeruolo e artimon rintoppaó:

tal, non per foco ma per divin’ arte,
bollia là giuso una pegola spessa,
che ’nviscava la ripa d’ogne parte.


From bridge to bridge thus, speaking other things
Of which my Comedy cares not to sing,
We came along, and held the summit, when
We halted to behold another fissure
Of Malebolge and other vain laments;
And I beheld it marvellously dark.

As in the Arsenal of the Venetians
Boils in the winter the tenacious pitch
To smear their unsound vessels o'er again,

For sail they cannot; and instead thereof
One makes his vessel new, and one recaulks
The ribs of that which many a voyage has made;

One hammers at the prow, one at the stern,
This one makes oars, and that one cordage twists,
Another mends the mainsail and the mizzen;

Thus, not by fire, but by the art divine,
Was boiling down below there a dense pitch
Which upon every side the bank belimed.


You can find very detailed information about the Arsenal, its structure and its expansion at the following website
http://www.veneziamuseo.it/ARSENAL/schede_arsenal/arsenal_vecio.htm

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Start your day with a strong coffee

TORREFAZIONE MARCHI

Start with a wonderful coffee at Torrefazione Marchi, surrounded by stacked piles of coffee bags on the floor. The speciality is il Caffe' della Sposa. Buy some packets to take with you,
even just the wonderful smell is worth it!!!

Sestiere Cannaregio, 1337, 30121 Venezia
Visit website
+39 (0) 41 716371

Venice

1716 the idea of a large dyke was proposed by Vincenzo Coronelli, 1744-1782 the Murazzi were built (architect Bernardino Zendrini)to defend the Lagoon from the erosion of the sea.

They are divided into 3 parts:

- Lido (Ca' Bianca to Alberoni)
- Pellestrina (Santa Maria del Mare to Ca' Roman)
- Sottomarina (Forte San Felice to Sottomarina Vecchia)

The dykes were damaged in 1825 and 1966.